![]() ![]() Once the power and vent have been unplugged, the next step is dismantling your dryer so you can access the heating element and remove it. Step 2 – Gain Access to the Heating Element Once unplugged, disconnect the vent (if applicable) and pull it out from the wall. Next, you will want to unplug it from the socket so you can move your appliance out of the wall. Start by turning the power off to your dryer. Simply follow our general step-by-step instructions below. If these steps don’t work, you will need to purchase a new heating element and install it in your appliance. However, before replacing the heating element, it’s best to rule out all of the simple possible causes of your dryer not working, such as the power supply, and try doing a simple reset. ![]() I have several, a couple of them were purchased at Walmart for under $20.If your dryer has stopped heating, it’s likely that the heating element is faulty and needs to be replaced. Possibly consider purchasing an inexpensive multimeter. Make sure the dryer is being provided with a good connection to both L1 and L2. Just the basics, make sure you are testing for 220v at the terminals of the actual heating element, nowhere else. When the element begins to draw amperage the L2 leg might open up. It is possible to have voltage present at the terminals but to have that circuit fail under a load. So after you have established that the element is good and is not in anyway grounding out to the heater case or to the heater housing after it has been installed, then we must look at the supply of electricity to the circuit. ![]() 110 volts with the heater removed from the dryer will cause it to be noticeably warm after only two or three minutes. This is not a particularly safe thing to do since if you touched the element it would shock you, possibly burning or killing you. Then I would take a cheater cord and just run 110 volts to the heater and see if it gets warm. I would unplug and remove the element and test it for continuity and also check it for a short to ground. I test the heating element and if I push 5v into in I receive 4.99 volts back with an identical resistance as if I just touch the two leads together, this is the same on the old heating element and the new. It's worth noting that while I have a multimeter the Ohm Meter part of it is broken, however I have a separate ohm meter I made out of an Arudino that I can test the resistance of parts on. I purchased a new heating element to replace the original one and the new heating element doesn't heat up either. I can't figure out why the heating element wouldn't be heating up even though it's receiving power. ![]() Now if I test the two leads that connect to the heating element for power they are both receiving about 240v however when I plug in the heating element it doesn't heat up, even if I bypass the high limit thermostat and plug directly into the heating element. I am trying to repair my Kenmore Electric Dyer (Model 110.61802000) and have already replaced the thermal fuse which worked for about a week until the solder job I did to get the thermal fuse to connect to the heating element failed. User flair is available by request and only granted to current or former appliance repair professionals who have demonstrated solid contributions to this sub. You may point people to online resources like Repair Clinic, Sears Parts Direct, and Appliance Parts Pros etc.įor appliance purchasing advice or to chat with other technicians: You can drop supplemental links to photos or video in your submission text or in the comments. See below for other communities that may be able to help you if your post is regarding a device not listed. This sub is for help with Washers, Dryers, Ranges, Ovens, Refrigerators, Freezers, and Dishwashers only. A help sub for those seeking guidance in repairing major household appliances. ![]()
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